High in
northwest India, sandwiched between the Great Himalaya
and the sub-ranges of the Karakoram chain, lies Ladakh. Its name, derived from
the Tibetan ‘la-dags’, means ‘land of mountain passes’. Known as ‘Little
Tibet’, it is impossible to remain unmoved by the austere beauty of the
terrain, its immensity and emptiness, with its medieval monasteries and small
villages like oases in the rocky landscape. Cutting through the mountains is
the IndusRiver, and in its valley the capital of the
region, Leh. Once the hub of India’s trade with Central Asia and Tibet, caravans with merchandise travelled
through the high passes from Yarkand (now in China) to Leh, and then on to Kashmir or Kulu. The Ladakhis are a friendly
people, a racial mix of Tibetan and Indo-Aryan peoples. The dynasty that ruled
the area until 1834 was descended from the Tibetan royal family. Thanks to its remoteness,
the region was only opened to tourists in 1974. Today, Ladakh is the only major
region where the Tibetan religion and culture exist in freedom, unrestricted by
a repressive state, flourishing largely unchanged for nearly two thousand
years.
DAY 1 Depart London by air to Delhi
DAY 2 Arriving
Delhi in the early morning, we stay overnight
in Likir House, a Tibetan-run guesthouse in New Delhi.
DAY 3 Transfer
to New Delhi Station where we catch an early morning train, the Shatabdi
Express, to Chandigarh, a journey of about three hours. After lunch in Chandigarh, we drive 300km to Kullu at our hotel, the
Shobla International, where we stay on a b&b basis for two nights. The
Kullu Valley, formed by one of the five major tributaries of the Indus,
enclosed by high mountains, was for long a remote, secluded Himalayan preserve,
familiar only to travellers and traders journeying to Tibet and central Asia
along its riverside paths. It was only after 1927 that motor vehicles could
reach the valley. Apples are the largest business in the KulluValley, and the roads are lined by many
orchards.
DAY 4 Rest in
the hotel in the morning. In the afternoon, there is an optional visit to
Manikaran, the site of a SikhTemple, famous for its hot springs and beautiful landscape.
DAY 5 We have a
drive of between six and eight hours today from Kullu to Keylong, across the spectacular
Rothang Pass at 3978m/13,050ft and descending through the more barren landscape
of Lahaul to transfer to our hotel, The Deykid Hotel.
DAY 6 We start
early for the journey from Keylong to Thiksey Monastery, which will take around
twelve hours (including several stops), steadlily gaining height as we approach
the Himalayan Range, crossing the Baralacha La (Pass) at 4,891m/16,046ft with its
blue glacial lake, the Suraj Tal. Travelling on through the Sarchu Plain, the
ascent of the ZanskarMountains begins in a series of hairpin bends before
descending from the NakeelaPass (4,739m/15,547ft) into the valley. The next pass, the
Lachulung La (5,100m/16,730ft) descends gradually into a canyon of fascinating
cone-shaped rock formations. The flat expanse of the Morey Plains amidst the
mountains leads on to the highest point of the journey, the Taglung La
(5,350m/17,552ft), with a spectacular view from the top of the pass and the
first sight of green fields alongside the KyammarRiver to Upshi. From Upshi to Thiksey is about
15 miles along a good road alongside the Indus.We arrive at Chamba Guesthouse in
Thiksey, where we will be based for most of our tour. All rooms are en-suite
and have views of the monastery. There is a vegetarian restaurant attached to
the hotel, and a roof terrace looking out towards the snow mountains.
DAY 7 Before
lunch, we take a tour of Thiksey Monastery including the spectacular Maitreya
(Chamba) Statue, perhaps Ladakh’s most beautiful work of sculpture. Built six
hundred years ago, on twelve levels, Thiksey Monastery appears like a mini PotalaPalace on its pyramid hill. After lunch in
Chamba Guesthouse, we drive in our ‘Maxicab’ (a minibus in all but name!) to StokPalace on the southern bank of the Indus. Built
by King Tsepal Namgyal in 1820 the palace became the permanent royal residence
in 1834 when Leh Palace was destroyed in 1834, forcing the king to abdicate.
The royal family still live in one wing of the Palace, while the rest of the
building accommodates a museum containing many of the Namgyal dynasty’s
heirlooms.
DAY 8 Early
morning prayers in Thiksey Gompa, and after breakfast we travel East of Leh,
visiting Hemis Gompa, Ladakh’s wealthiest monastery, hidden from view in a
remote valley. From here it is about 10km/6miles to Chemde Monastery,
overlooking the lush green valley extending to the village of Sakti. Thag-tok Monastery near Sakti, grew out
of a cave hermitage where Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) is believed to have
meditated. Returning to Thiksey, we visit Stakna Monastery, again perched on
top of its pyramidal outcrop of rock, and with a spectacular view of the IndusValley.
DAY 9 We leave
the guesthouse and travel west through the valley, through Leh town, to Likir Monastery, with its giant open-air statue of
Maitreya. Passing through a wild arid plateau we follow the course of the Indus as it meets its tributary the ZanskarRiver at Nimu. The valley narrows into a
canyon, crossing the Indus, and into a sharp ascent, winding through deep canyons and up the
sides of the so-called ‘Moonland formation’ – a spectacular craterlike depression.
The road descends gradually to Lamayuru Monastery on a rocky outcrop in the
valley. Lamayuru is the oldest monastery in central Ladakh, and probably
originally a Bon-po holy place – the precursor of Buddhism. Retracing our
route, we stay the night in a hotel in Alchi.
DAY 10 An
early visit to the magnificent temple complex of Alchi before the crowds
arrive. Alchi is considered one of the most important cultural sites anywhere
in the Himalaya. The monastery dates from 1,000AD, and
contains unique Kashmiri-style frescoes and statues. On the return journey to
Leh, we visit Basgo, an ancient citadel, and now a World Heritage Site. Phyang
Monastery, 17km/1travellers miles from Leh, dating back to the 15th Century, perches on
a rocky hillock with the mountains of the Ladakh range as the backdrop. We have
lunch in LehTown, and return to Chamba Guesthouse to rest
for the afternoon.
DAY 11 Today
there is an optional walk from the small village of Arzoo across the low pass to StakmoVillage (about four hours). For those not
wishing to walk, vehicles will take you to Arzoo and Stakmo. Arzoo is a small
farming village with a tiny temple run by the monks from Thiksey Monastery.
Stakmo was where Thiksey Monastery was originally founded by Shesrab Zangpo,
and the beautiful village is surrounded by birch trees and clear mountain
streams, and has reputedly the best barley crop in Ladakh.
DAY 12 We
drive to Tsomoriri lake, initially taking the Leh-Manali road, but branching
off at Upshi along the banks of the Indus, and through stunning scenery as the valley gradually widens. At
Chumathang,where there
are hot
springs, the road crosses the MaheBridge, through a valley with many grazing
sheep, to the Namshang La (4,960m/16,270ft), skirting the beautiful lake of Tso Kiagar, often withnomads camping
with their herds of yak, sheep and pashmina goats. You may well spot marmots
peering out from their burrows. The first glimpse of Tsomoriri (the mountain
lake) set against the snow-capped mountains in the distance is unforgettable.
The road runs along the western shore of the lake to Korzok, where we camp in
static tents near the lakeside. Tsomoriri is among the few breeding grounds of
the bar-headed goose and the rare black-necked crane.
DAY 13 After a
walk around part of the lake, we visit Korzok Gompa, the Nomad’s temple, to see
its wonderful views of the lake from its terrace, then start our return journey
to Thiksey. After the wide valley we traverse an arid, dusty expanse over the
Polo Kongka La 4,970m/16,305ft) to TsokarLake. Tsokar means ‘white lake’ and it gets
its name from the salty deposits. Here we can often spot herds of Kiang, the wild
ass, and many birds by the lake itself. We rejoin the Manali-Leh highway and
return to Chamba Guesthouse in time for dinner.
DAY 14 North
through the Leh valley takes us up to the Khardong La 39km/24 miles from Leh at
5,602m/18,380ft, the highest motorable
road in the world, and down past the glacier into the main valley and the village of Khardong. The ShyokRiver valley appears in a canyon, descending
to Khalsar, the beginning of the Nubra region, known as the Valley of Flowers. The desert area of sand dunes, where
Bactrian camels can still be found, was until 1949 part of the great trade
route between northern India and central Asia. During the 1930s it is said that some
10,000 pack animals – mostly horses, but also camels, yaks, donkeys and goats –
passed through the Nubra Valley carrying silk, carpets, rugs, pashmina and
cannabis from Yarkand in exchange for spices, textiles, dyes, manufactured goods
and tea , crossing the Khardong La to Leh and continuing on to Kashmir and the
Punjab. We stay in the tented Chamba Camp in Hundar, amongst the apricot and
apple trees, and have an option of camel riding in the sand dunes or visiting Hundar
Gompa in the village and relaxing in the camp.
DAY 15 We
visit Diskit Monastery for early morning prayers. Diskit Gompa dates back to
the early 15th Century and sits on a ride 500ft above the village,
sprawling across a steep crag. The old Dukhang has a mural on the
ceiling showing Tashi Lhunpo Monastery in Shigatse, Tibet, with the Panchen Lama seen receiving
guests. After a visit to DiskitMonasterySchool at the foot of the monastery we leave
for Sumur taking the
road along the NubraRiver valley. Here we visit Samstangling
Gompa, Nubra’s largest monastery, and home to over 100 monks. We return to Leh
through the Khardong La.
DAY 16 The Leh
Festival begins on 1st September and runs for 15 days, during which there are
polo matches, archery competitions, masked dances and cultural shows and we
will see the many different traditional costumes of the Ladakhi people who come
to watch and take part.
DAY 17A day at leisure, with lunch in LehTown for final shopping. Overnight in Chamba
Guesthouse.
DAY 18 Early morning flight from Leh to Delhi, and transfer to International Hotel
near the airport. Optional visit to Delhi handicraft market or independent visit
to Delhi.
Cost per guest based on twin or double
room and full board, using a combination of three 4wd cars and a Maxicab for valley sightseeing.
BASIC
TOUR PRICE£831.00 per
person (with airfare and extras approx £1,420) Single supplement: Additional
£134 £965.00 per person (with airfare and extras approx £1,550) (For notes
about extras and international airfare, see below)
Included:
Accommodation in Keylong/Thiksey/Alchi
/Chamba Camp/Tsomoriri Camp on full board basis
Accommodation in Delhi/Kullu on B&B
basis
All ground transportation by Toyota Inova
or Scorpio and Maxicab from pick up in Chandigarh to airport in Leh on departure from
Ladakh; transfers to and from airport in Delhi.
AC Chair Train Ticket Shatabdi Express Delhi to Chandigarh
NOTES :We can take a maximum of 12 people on
this trip, so please book early to secure a place! The cut-off date for
confirmation is 1st May 2009, after which it may not be possible to
book the internal air tickets etc
Air Tickets : It is either possible to book your own ticket from London to Delhi, or I can do this for you. If you want me to make your flight reservation for you, I will need full payment at the time of booking. This payment is non-refundable if you have to cancel after the tickets have been purchased. However the earlier we confirm and book the tickets, the cheaper they are likely to be. More information about the purchase of tickets will come as soon as I know how many peoplle are likely to want to book independently.
If you plan to book you own ticket, the cheapest way is through the internet. The British Airways flight above is conveniently timed for the trip and very reasonably priced, while Virgin Atlantic is slightly cheaper at the moment. We will arrange transport to meet one fligjht in Delhi only so (so unless you have booked a flight which arrives at roughly the same time as the group booking), you may have to make your own way to the hotel in Delhi on your arrival.
Deposits: A deposit of £200 is payable on
booking, returnable until 1st May 2009. If you cancel after this date, your deposit will not be returned.
Full
Payment: The second
instalment of the Basic Tour Price will be due on 1st May, and full payment by
the middle of June.
Insurance: You will need to be sure you have
adequate travel insurance for the trip. It would also be advisable to tell your
doctor that you are planning to spend some time at a high altitude, and to
check on the necessary vaccinations.
Information: You will receive a
‘newsletter’ occasionally with details of the visits we are planning to make and
some more background information.
Donation to
Tashi Lhunpo Monastery: The tour has been organised by Tashi Lhunpo Monastery
UK Trust and a donation has been included in the cost of your trip to benefit
the monastery in South
India. If you
do not wish to offer this donation, please let me know. I hope you can come and
look forward to hearing from you!
DAY 6
We arrive at Chamba Guesthouse in
Thiksey, where we will be b
DAY 8
DAY 10
DAY 12
DAY 16
